One, when you can't wait to go, you count down days, pack your bags a week before actual departure and can't stand last days of work... and the other one, when you don't expect too much, pack your suitcase three hours before you leave and pray on the way you didn't forget anything you can't live without, slightly annoyed that you have to move anywhere...
The former usually leaves you with a bitter taste of dissapointment, a bit of sadness or even a shadow of anger and you promise yourself that next time you won't set hopes on it so much. The latter is full of surprises, exciting and leaves you breathless yet relaxed, promising to return to that place soon... very soon!
Croatia. Everyone goes to Croatia these years... I can't stand popular places full of tourists. It makes the place worn out and used, full of foot stamps and almost unattractive. But I've never been there! Time came for me to go where the others go and see for myself - maybe the devil's not so black ;-)
ZAGREB. Capital surprise
After ten-hour drive I find myself in Zagreb, Croatia's capital city. It looks like nothing I've ever seen. It looks somehow familiar, welcomes you with its lushing greenery, peaceful atmosphere and dark-yellow painted building facades. "Ideal place for afternoon jogging" - I thought. Indeed, running around Zagreb was just delightful.
Evening visit to Gradec (old town) unveiled true beauty and warm atmosphere of the city. Town Square makes you think you are in Hague and the futher you go north, the more it feels like Bratislava or Prague. When you find yourself in Tomiceva Street you can't help getting into one of the local restaurants serving self-brewed beer and delicious meals. Quiet talks, glasses and cutlery twanging make a very pleasant ambient and it makes you feel very welcome and relaxed. Food is delicious, prices more than reasonable - you really feel like staying here forever.
Saint Mark's church is a masterpiece. Its roof makes you stare at it for at least a quarter: first you get to see it through the window of Lotrščak Tower, where they fire a canon at midday and then from St Mark's Square.
There are many interesting museums nearby. Forced to choose only one, I went to the Museum of Broken Relationships, which was awarded in 2011 for the most innovative museum in Europe. Make sure you don't miss the Museum of Naive Art - it's amazing how such beautiful and truly original art developed in Croatian villages.
ISLANDS of variety
Islands I crossed were very different from each other. Krk was full of forests, Rab rich in medieval heritage and Pag couldn't be travelled through without buying some local goat cheese.
On Krk Island there is a little town which must have been created by angels themselves: Baška. Surrounded by limestone hills, extremely quiet and undisturbed. There are some really good restaurants in the marina - there was nothing better than eating local delicacies (Šurlice, Ćevapčići, grilled calamari stuffed with dalmatian ham and cheese) and drinking Žlahtina (local wine) in these tranquile surroundings. This must be heaven. It's definitely a place off the beaten track and thank God for that, otherwise thousands of tourists would trample over it. I would say this place is very enchanting and it's an ideal place for relaxation.
Rab is famous for its four medieval towers lined along the coast. The further I travelled south, the more I realized that there are plenty of little towns and cities where history and heritage play such a great role. Marble, narrow paths, medieval remains - it all makes this place magical, almost as if you were taken back in time!
ZADAR. Venetian Zara
Zadar's old town is located on a small peninsula where everything is reachable within a walking distance. Walking around that place is a sheer pleasure, at any time of the day. The city is quite intimate in comparison with Split and Dubrovnik, however it has an undoubtful charm.
Elaborate net of twisting, narrow, marble paths makes you lose the sense of direction, especially when many amazing Roman buildings scattered all around attract your attention (like St Donatus' Church, Landward Gates). No need to panic though - sooner or later you will find the way. It is only a stone throw away from Pag island, which home to sheep's milk cheese (Paški sir).
SPLIT
As soon as you get there, you know straight away it's worth the effort. Dioclecian's Palace which is a UNESCO heritage site, ecompasses the entire city centre. With time it was turned into more modern city centre with bars, restaurants and plenty of little shops and is amazing especially by night. It's good to stroll through the maze of twisting lanes and feel the spirit of Roman Empire.
It's worth climbing up the Marian hill to have a spectacular view on the entire city centre and the bay. It definitely is phenomenal.
DUBROVNIK
Once you had travelled from the north and seen Zadar and Split, you don't believe that Dubrovnik can sweep you off your feet. It not only can, but it absolutely does !
Arrived there at night but couldn't resist the tempation and went to the old town... It's absolutely beyond one's imagination. It's huge, spacious, monumental! At night the lights reflect in the rocky pavement, which is made of marble, slippery blocks. By day, it is all as bright as the sun. The best way to sightsee the heritage area is to take a walk along the ancient city walls (about 2 km).
When the weather's nice, it's a good idea to take a ferry to a nearby island, Lokrum, also called an island of love, which is entirely a protected area (nature reserve). As you walk around the island, you may encounter beautifully coloured peackocks.
LOKRUM
On a hot day this island is the best that can happen to a tourist. You can spend the worst heat (midday and early afternoon) cooling down on Lokrum island (there's plenty of little bays facilitated for swimmers). Walking around the walls is much nicer in the afternoon.
PELJESAC
The longest peninsula in Croatia, full of vineyards, wineries and boutique resorts. Variety of landscapes leaves you with a number of possibilities. Orebic turned out to be just fine at the end of the season.
Rent a bike, go to Mokalo campsite and chill out in a bar carved out in a stone wall or sunbathe on a little yet not crowded beach.
In the morning enjoy fresh veggies and fruit, during the day swim in the clear waters and in the evening stroll along the coast and have a dinner in one of the charming restaurants. Here you can definitely do nothing but spoil yourself. Be careful - it's hard to resist temptation of staying here longer than you planned!
Brač
You can get to Brac island by ferry from Split. This island is famous for the most popular beach in Croatia - pebbly, horn shaped beach called Zlatni Rat (Golden Horn). Windward side of the beach offers spectacular, large waves while the leeward side is calm and still, where you can float peacefully on the waters surface - that's where most tourists gather. There are nice bars with comfy sofas in the shades of pine groves, where you can cool off with a drink. Sun beds aren't free, but the prices are reasonable. Definitely worth paying only to avoid laying on pebbles (unbearable for more than 30 minutes).
